Eboli, Italy

I went to Eboli as a whim, because it is a place that since my childhood I knew I should go so I did. And I went with the best company. My couchsurfers taught me not only the town but also the people around. They taught me to prepare pesto pasta and I got what I think has been the best Italian food I ate in Italy. They told me about the country, the good and the bad. They told me of their travels and their lives and I was introduced to his friends. Thery were really cool. Everyone.

Eboli is in the province of Salerno, near to the sea and close to heaven. It’s a small town. Many asked why I puzzled my way to the town where Christ once stood, I told them I was searching for my past. In Eboli I met different kind of people and talked to them.  I realized many things. Similarities with my Mexico and differences, at least with me.

I spoke with some young guys that were there, hanging at the plaza and I realized that they are just waiting the days to pass. Go to the bar and talk to each other but they do not move. I asked them if they liked Eboli and they said no. Then I asked them if they would go somewhere else and they said no. None of them worked and had no intentions of doing so. I was told that there was no work, so they better played cards. It was cool to talk to them, I also talked with a guy named Fausto, he was good looking and an interesting guy. I really enjoyed talking with him. He spoke spanish, but with a cuban accent which I think was pretty cool. He told me he got a job but he quit because he was being impaled (his own words). He worked for 21 hours and was paid 80 euros. He told me that the situation in Italy wasn’t good. I talked with him about God (well, he talked to me about God). He said he was confused, he used to study to be a priest but one day he got in an accident and left him in a coma for four days and after that he stopped believing in God. “God does not exist” he said so convinced. He told me that what kept him alive wasn’t a miracle but science. I listened. I liked to talk to him. He had words and meanings. He also told me that women today are stupid that they only think in sex and wether they like a guy or not. “I want sex, I don’t want sex, I like him, I don’t like him” he said in a funny girly voice. He said they are stupid and confused and that he didn’t like that. He left to play cards and I stayed with another guy (I don’t remember his name) but he had lame tattoos; a square in one arm, a triangle in the other, a cross in the leg, and something like that in the other leg. I asked him about the meaning of his tattoos waiting for some nice explanation. He couldn’t answer me. It made me think that perhaps I am not as lost as I thought. I have options and meanwhile I am doing stuff. Anyway… he wasn’t a bad guy, he was nice actually. We went for a walk at the old city in Eboli after that we went to a “bar” and I order a Peroni, an italian beer. ( I think that it is absolutely important to drink the national beer of the country you visit).

The next day we went to the local market and we buy some food, we also stayed at a restaurant beside the plaza and talked for a bit. At dinner time we went to a restaurant where we met some other friends of my couchsurfers. All locals, women in one side and men at the other, they (the men) were talking about politics. Berlusconi… And sometimes the conversation got heated.

At Eboli, days are the same. The people walk in the square and everyone knows everyone. There is a town in the middle of a city, the old city. Old houses next to each other, with small streets full of ups and downs. In Eboli you can look ravages of World War II in buildings destroyed by bombs.

I found tranquility in Eboli. It reminded me to my grandma’s little town. And, of course it did. At the end, Eboli means family.


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